The little Scottish town of North Berwick has been getting a lot of attention in recent weeks, having been chosen as one of the best places to live in the UK. This announcement came just on the heels of my arrival in North Berwick and it was quickly obvious why everyone would want to live there. Much like small towns in Canada that are incredibly popular for people from the city to move to, North Berwick has everything you could want, in walking distance, only 40 minutes from Edinburgh. (Of course, in Scotland that’s 40 minutes by train rather than by car…). I found the town by looking at the map of Scotland and seeing how close to the beach we could get by train!
Getting There
We arrived at Edinburgh International Airport (WestJet has direct flights from Canadian cities to Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Gatwick through this summer- 2024) and took the Bright Bus to Waverley Station. You can purchase tickets to North Berwick at any of the self-serve kiosks in the station. Booking ahead is not necessary, even at peak season. The train journey on ScotRail is about 40 minutes and the train departs every 30 minutes or so.
How Long Should I Stay?
We spent two nights in North Berwick and that was plenty of time to see the sights and also have some downtime before returning to Edinburgh. However, you can also make a trip to North Berwick a day trip from Edinburgh. Sunrise or sunset are some of the nicest times to climb the Law (the big hill) or to be on the beach, so an overnight might be easier if you don’t like feeling rushed to get back.
If you have a good amount of time, see how many of these things you can do:
1. Wander the beaches and go for a swim
The priority for me in a seaside town is being on the beach. There are two main beaches in North Berwick – Milsey Bay Beach is on one side of the seabird centre, and West Bay Beach on the other. During our visit in early August, families seemed to gravitate to the Milsey Bay side for playing in the sand and swimming, but I preferred the West Bay Beach for long walks on the strand. The West Bay side seemed to be more for water sports and less for swimming.
2. Climb the North Berwick Law
In Edinburgh you can walk up to Arthur’s Seat, but North Berwick has its own big hill: The Law (another word for a steep hill) is part of the volcanic plugs that surround the area. The walk takes about half an hour, and is relatively well marked. The day we went it was very windy and although it is steep, many children were managing well. It is well worth the effort on a clear day to see the views. If you then go to Edinburgh and climb Arthur’s Seat you can check out those same sights from the other side.
3. Walk along the North Berwick sea wall
North Berwick was home to a very popular outdoor swimming pool until the early 1990s. The space is now home to colourful cabins where artisans can sell their goods. But the change rooms from the pool make for a delightful setting. You can get a sense of the town from when it was the place for upper class families to visit in the summer.
Following the sea wall above the pool space, walk out to the point and take in the views. Even on a grey day you can see Bass Rock. It is home to so many gannets (sea birds) that the rock looks white in colour.
4. Go for a round of golf – or watch them golf
North Berwick is home to several really high test golf courses (pretty pricey too!). The courses are open to the public to walk and run on though. You can wander the greens and take in the views whether or not you decide to putt – just follow the signage to avoid getting whacked by a rogue golfball.
Once you’ve finished golfing (or walking the course) head to the Marine North Berwick Hotel for a drink. Time it right for a glass of wine and some dessert at sunset and finish some work like I did!
5. Visit the North Berwick high street for shopping and coffee
As in all popular small towns, the main street in North Berwick is full of cute shops and restaurants. Enjoy a little wander and stop for a meal at one of the many nice eateries. If you leave the high street and head toward the cemetery, you’ll find Steampunk Coffee which was a great surprise.
6. Catch a show at Fringe By The Sea
The Fringe Festival in Edinburgh is world-famous and as a result creates a very busy and touristy feeling in the city. It’s lots of fun, but you can see some equally good shows without the big-city vibes by heading to North Berwick for the satellite fringe: Fringe By The Sea. This annual event coincides with the early weeks of the Edinburgh Fringe. Having arrived in North Berwick and discovered the festival, I signed up for a running tour of the town – part of the Festival events. We wound through the narrow streets, out to the ocean look out points, and through some of the trail systems. It was a great way to see the town and learn more about its history.
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